NINES #242

by Don Wollum.

(Note: The following was provided for those who registered to attend the 1999 National Saab Owners Convention held in Keystone, Colorado.)

Driving in the mountains, particularly as it pertains to oxygen levels and atmospheric pressure, presents special challenges to vintage Saab's, 20 years or older. Whether you own a 1959 93B or a 1999 9-5, this altitude information will be important to know.


Section one: Physics of high altitude automobile operation

Section two: General Recommendations for All Saab Cars

  1. Brakes and Brake Fluids
  2. Fuels and Fuel Delivery
  3. Cooling System and A/C operations

Section three: Recommendations for V4s and 99/900 thru 1979.

Section four: Recommendations for 2-strokes engines

Section five: Safety on the Interstate Highways

While tips are offered for assisting at altitude, the risk for engine damage is real if you exceed these settings! Equally vital is that below 5,000 ft., reset your engine tune specs to standard sea level specifications.

Disclaimer: SAAB CARS, SAAB CLUBS, and CONVENTION SPONSORS, and article author, disclaim financial losses.


Physics of High Altitude Automobile Operation
Why that Mountain Monster hits so hard

Sub-stratospheric conditions above 10,000 ft., robs your engine's power output a full 34 %, due to a combination of lowered oxygen levels, and a significant reduction in atmospheric pressure values at altitude.

Punch # 1. Oxygen tends to settle to low places, due to atomic weight molecular theories and gravity. Oxygen levels found at 5,000 ft. are a full 14% less than levels found at sea-level. At 10,000 ft. this percentage loss of oxygen now approaches 30%. As carburetor jets remain fixed, the diminished oxygen in the thin mountain air will burn poorly with the carb's fixed amounts of fuel. The logical outcome is black smoke from the tailpipe, and poor mileage, and significantly reduced power outputs. Hold on though, you are about to discover the second power robbing aspect associated with high altitude engine operations.

Punch # 2. concerns atmospheric pressure that we too often underestimate. Its easy to do, most Americans live at elevations below 500 ft. and are essentially at sea level. This is our normal condition to live and breathe in deep, rich, heavy air. Atmosphere pressure is proportional to the weight of all the above molecules resting and pressing down to the bottom from miles above. Remember diving to the bottom of a swimming pool, how with increasing depths, the extra water pressure hurts your ears. Atmospheric pressure is alot like the collective height / weight of the water molecules, but instead we are talking about air molecules. We are quite accustomed to life at the bottom, under the weight of miles of air molecules that are stacked above you. Now consider the opposite, at Keystone, we will experience the absence of the two miles of air molecules, the ones we left behind and below us in Eastern Kansas. Air pressure differentials are what lifts a hot air balloon and its heavy gondola off the ground. Ever hear about Colorado Rockies home-run advantages with thin air at Coors Stadium. Baseball statisticians add an asterick to the batter's home-run numbers for runs hit in Denver.

Let's return to situation back underneath our hoods. It follows then that less of air molecules resting and pressing above our throttle plates at 10,000 ft. will fill our motor's cylinders less effectively when the piston travels down. Furthermore, this slower fill rate is now at odds with the sea-level designed camshaft timing values. The mechanical time the valves are open will remain the same, yet due to the reduced atmospheric pressure, far less mixture will enter the cylinders. Clearly this will remain the key power robbing component that we will be least able to compensate for with our adjustments. Two-stroke motors use ports in the cylinder wall to time air flows and these ports are the equivalent of the 4- stroke's camshaft. The two-stroke is so dependant on heavy sea-level pressure differentials, that at altitude, intake, transfer, and exhaust back pressures, will be disproportionately disrupted, robbing the two stroke motor of greater torque than 4-stroke motors.

Ok ! Now that I have got your attention, my recommendations are to make some simple and prudent altitude adjustments and changes. There is no magic answer, nor specific settings for regaining sea level power! Realistically, your Saab's can only perform with less vigor, but you and your Saab will arrive at Keystone Colorado just fine! Enjoy the many pictures taken of you car on each breath-taking scenic overlook. Be cautious and do not over-adjust and ask a "bit more" from tune specification. Over adjusting will do actual harm to your engine, and also cost you plenty in delays, breakdowns and towing expenses. Every fellow Saab conventioneer wants you to arrive safley,on schedule and certainly not hot and irritated from unnecessary roadside repairs.


  • gentle leaning of mixtures
  • mild advances of timing
  • keep rpm's high

PLUS: General maintence recommendations and safe & knowledgeable tips for high altitude mountain travel.

Mile High Saab and other Saab repair shops in Denver offer a tune check for those heading up to the Rocky Mountains. It is usually necessary to make an appointment, and there is usually a small charge for adjustments if needed. Your sea level tune settings will work okay up to Denver.

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General Recommendations for Mountainous Conditions

Brakes and Brake Fluid

Good brakes are essential for mountain driving! The old adage "what goes up, must come down", has never been more important. Besides new pads and shoes, there are two other components of the brake system that will need to be in top form. Some grades in the Rocky Mountains will be over ten miles with grades of 8% or more. With the tremendous length and steepness of the decent, everyone's brakes will get extremely hot, cars and trucks alike. I guarantee you will see smoke and smell the damaged pads and overheated rotors of others who imprudently ride the brakes and develop problems with overheated brakes. Here are some tips:


  1. Total brake heat is affected by the rate you slow down in, so lengthen your stops all you can. Total brake heat is also affected by highest speed you start slowing down from, so don't allow initial speeds to build. Downshift and spare the brakes on the really steep grades, cool brakes by using third gear to allow 30 second rests.
  2. Flush your brake system with a DOT-4 Castrol fluid, stem to stern, to avoid boiling of the brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and water will boil an "air pocket" in your system, especially at altitude, because the boiling point of water is now 187 F. Do not upgrade to silicone DOT-5 unless all seals and cylinder are new! You will spring seeps at most containment seals due to seal shrinkage reacting to silicone. Pedal bleeders are now asked to limit stroke by placing a small block of wood under the pedal. This great idea will avoid trashing the seals mucking through the grunge that resides in this unused end of the Master Cylinder bore.
  3. Measure your brake rotors for overall thickness. The point here is to have enough metal mass to store excessive heating that mountain use will bring. Again you will be traveling DOWN ten miles of 8% grade! Replace your rotors if they are deeply worn, or overly turned on a lathe. Spend a few minutes with a MM Micrometer and measure against factory specifications. Thin rotors will turn red hot and the pads will not grip the burning, smoking, thin, rotors. Runaway ramps are for trucks having emergencies, not Saab owners!
  4. Also, do not neglect to bleed the clutch system, especially on 900, and 9000 models. I have received more complaints of clutchless cars on the contenetal divide than all other complaints combined. The reason is after a 55 minute pull to 10,000 ft., engine heat given up by the A/C condenser, Intercooler, Radiator, all penetrate the trans chain case and boil the often neglected brake fluid still residing in the slave cylinder.
  5. All Vintage Saabs need to also go DOWN the hills in the same gear that you went up the hill in. Pre-mix 2- stroke may use 4-th gear only on interstates and remember to pull the choke out to wet the insides of the motor with oil every 20 to 30 seconds or so. Drum brake 96's need to pull over often for extra cooling, minimum 10 minutes, or consider spraying the steel wheels with water from a garden sprayer to help cool the drum brakes.

Fuels and Fuel Delivery

Fuels sold in Colorado and other high altitude states in the West, are generally 2 points lower in octane. Simply buy the same grade of fuel you were used to buying at low altitude. For example, if you had 87,89, 93, octane availiable in New Jersey, your choices in Colorado now are 85,87,91. If you were okay with middle grade 89 octane, your choice in Colorado will now be the middle grade 87 octane.

Engine cooling:

Two factors will combine to create higher engine temp. Obvious is the continuous pull up hill, and second is the lower air mass that will decrease the amount of heat convected away through the radiator. Your temp. needle will rest much closer to the hot area and this is ok provided the needle is not in the red and does not radically raise or lower in less than one minute. Running of the A/C is ok, provided you can spare the 5 horsepower. If you need a bit more engine cooling on hills, turn on the heater and open the windows. If you have any doubt that your engine is too near the red, immediately seek the advice in your owners manual or seek technical advise. Do carry some apare antifreeze, and/or use the new coolant "wetters".

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Pre-1979 Saab 99, 900's,
and all V-4 models including Sonnets.
Note! Do not make these changes until 5,000 feet above sea level (1 Mile High).
Reverse these settings under 5,000 feet!

Ignition Timing

WARNING: Do not exceed these values!!!

In general, timing specifications can be advanced a few degree's beyond factory spec. It is extremely important to remember that no one "advance law" will fit all versions of Saab Engines. If you could generalize ignition advance recommendations, they would be: Above 2,000 feet, one degree advance for every two thousand ft. of altitude increase... TO A POINT! Once you get above 8 thousand feet the physics involved are too great to adjust around. Do not add more than four degrees under any circumstance. The theory of altitude advance is to give the lower oxygen mixture a better chance to burn by beginning the ignition process earlier, and more power is developed. Timing specifications will also increase manifold vacuum. This also is a good side benefit.

The following specs are for idle, with vacuum advance plugged & disconnected, using a strobe timing light. If at any time you hear or suspect detonation, cut by half any timing change, or return to stock settings.

Model:                     Factory timing   Altitude Timing
All V-4 models:
                            6 degrees       10 degrees 

99 models: 
Carb w/1.7L & 1.85L eng.   10 degrees       14 degrees 
EFI w/1.85L Triumph eng.    6 degrees       10 degrees 
Carb w/2.0L "B" eng.       14 degrees       18 degrees
EFI w/Saab "B" eng.        12 degrees       15 degrees
CIS w/Saab "B" or "H" eng  14 degrees       16 degrees

You will notice a trend here as engine and fuel management systems evolve, timing advance recommendations become less. Modern fuel managements systems with Oxygen Sensors, all models after 1980, have vastily improved mixtures will need even less timing advance. Later in the 90's, computerized spark-systems as EZK, Motronic, and Trionic, will automatically advance the ignition timing with built in safety precautions. It is wise to know "knock sensor" motors will benefit from higher octane numbers. Your fuel choice will be assisting the computor with keeping the timing optimized. Poor fuel octanes will degrade engine performance as ping will negate and erase "advances" in computer spark mappings.

SAAB TURBO MODELS SHOULD NOT RECEIVE ANY TIMING ADVANCES. Turbocharged engines are pressurizing the intake charge as if at sea level! When the stuffed cylinder is then compressed the risk is high for detonation due to boost aided compression factors alone. Use priumum fuel only, and all 900, 9000 16-valve motors (without Direct Ignition) will need NGK BCP7EV plugs. DI motors need resistor plugs at all times, consider the trusted NGK brand BCPR 7 ES 11 plugs.

While we are on the subject of detonation, be aware that some 85- 88 CIS 900's could have defective preheat flaps that stick and give heat to the air cleaner at all times. At temperatures above 80 F. this hot air leans the mixture to a point where detonation occurs at mid to full throttle. If you hear ping on hard pulls, remove the stove pipe (aluminum tube) at the exhaust end and re-test drive under heavy load conditions. For stop gap, remove the aluminum tube (at exhaust side) and reroute to cool air source behind left front H/L.

Additionally 900 EZK spark models tend to ping briefly with abrupt throttle openings, under load, especially when hot. A brief acceleration "ping" is normal. If ping continues for more than 2-seconds, change to high test, or seek Service advice. All Saab engines without Electrical Idle Motors, will idle lower, due to less dense air. Your cars steady 900 rpm idle speed at sea-level low altitude, will sink to 500 rpm at Keystone, and this topic will lead us into discussions on air / fuel ratio's and mixtures, carburetors and fuel injection.

Mixture and Fuel

This section will discuss important fuel design compromises and discuss fuel adjustment limitations!

4-stroke Carbureted engines suffer the most when driving at high altitude. High altitude air movements in a carburetor will more resemble the unstable air flow around an aircraft wing when it encounters stall speeds. The chambers in the venturi were designed with shapes and spaces that would effective in mixing liquid fuel with air at sealevel. The long and short of this discussion is that little can be done to give great air/fuel ratio's at altitude. The advice is as follows: keep RPM's up to increase air velocities within the carburetor to "normalize" the mixing fuel and air flows. A second benefit to partial throttle settings, and high RPM's, will be the creation of a secondary fuel atomizing area around & below the throttle plate.

To provide optimal amounts of air to the engine, a new filter is imperative. Also make sure air offered is cool as possible. If you still have original metal snorkel on the early V-4 or Pre 72 99, split the end opening on the bottom and widen this restricted air inlet. Also ensure that the fuel system filter is new, and that all fuel hoses are not cracked (suction and pressure) and the pump is good and hopefully new. If you don't actually replace the fuel pump consider at least pack new one along, and you could even carry a spare electric pump along. The reduced atmospheric pressure can cause fuel vapor lock, but not always in the carburetor! Vapor lock is often in the pull side from the tank. Electric pumps can be mounted near the tank, greatly reducing the the chances of fuel delivery vapor lock.

All carbs will need the idle setting increased, and the idle mixture thinned out, by turning the idle mixture screw in. Do not change the main or pilot jets to anything less than stock values. Remember that you will be flooring the motor flat out, at high speeds for 10-15 minutes or longer. Please do not burn your valves or pistons doing the impossible by re-jetting your carbs lean! Standard jets sizes only. Hopefully at sealevel you were running the jets a little fatter than specified for better power. Stromberg carburetors need only idle speed adjustments and idle air trim adjustments (screw adjuster out) to increase air bleed and lean idle. Do not play with needle position or main jet position. The Stromberg carb will self adjust better than the fixed venturi carburetor. Do carry a spare piston diaphragm along, as would this diaphragm develop a tear, you are completely stopped.

EFI systems, 1970-1974, tend not to respond well to adjustments, and the parts are now old and fuel pressure and manifold sensor diaphragms are brittle and weak. RIGHT NOW, if you have good driveability and good gas mileage , consider leaving well enough alone. Only if your mileage on a highway is below 24 MPG at 60 MPH, should you seek information or a technician to lean out the mixture . Or, if your highway mileage is above 32 MPG at 60 MPH, seek information or a technician to richen the mixture. CO gas analyzers do an ok job informing the technician of relative CO changes, but consider actually preforming a true 30 mile highway mileage test. Lean surge was often mistaken for throttle switch deficiencies, but unwittingly you may be running far too lean. You could have the unfortunate experience of burning a valve. Do the mileage test out on the road to where you can drive at 60 mph for the majority of the miles specified. True technocrats could weld threads for an O2 sensor in the front pipe, and help the technician get road readings.

CIS systems WITHOUT Oxygen Sensor, 1975-1979 Federal States version
Continuous fuel injection is very accurate in metering fuel in proportion to manifold vacuum and does "ok" with altitude gain. Less manifold vacuum will lift the air sensor plate less so fuel delivered is less also. Lets say that your CO was at 2% at sea level, it would now measure 5% at 8,000 ft. This value is not as "off" as it may seem, as CO is still combusted fuel that could have benefited from more air to bond with carbon to form CO2. Look at the other side of the fuel equation, 95 % of the carbon did bond with air to form CO2. At altitude, adjustments, your power and mileage may still suffer and you will not have gained alot from CO adjustments

CIS oxygen sensor FI systems,1977-1988 8-valve engines.
These CIS cars have mixture override systems to correct for combustion variances, including altitude driving. Enjoy your trip without compromises.

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Two-Stroke Recommendations

The goal is to drive to Colorado and return with a increasing rare and very unique, fun to drive, power unit. Because two-strokes fire on every stroke, more heat is given to the pistons and petroil provides precious little lubrication. If the expansion of the piston goes unchecked, minimal oil offered by the fuel can turn directly into power robbing friction. Worst case is the complete seizure of the piston in the bore. All issues discussed below are vital in protecting the two-stroke motor against the damages caused by heat and friction.

Fuel and carburetion: Use the best available grade of Premium fuel for all models, plus additions of octane boosters for all Monte-Carlo's up to 5, 000 ft. When the Stroker gets in the middle of its power curve, combustion temps and pressures are high performance!

Monte Carlo carb jets

  • Mains: 120, 135, 120
  • Pilots: 55,or 60 (no 45's )
  • Emulsion air jet: 200's, 180 at altitude, (NO-220's)

Pre-mix tri-carb jets

  • Mains: 125, 135, 125
  • Pilots: 55, or 60
  • Emulsion air jet: 150 to 5 K., and 180's at altitude

Two-stroke Oils: Two-stroke oils are available at your local motorcycle shop and/or personal water craft dealers. There are two types of two stroke oil available, PREMIX and INJECTOR. Generally the premix oils are of a heavier viscosity, like 30 wt oil and is mixed directly in the gas tank. The premix oil is then separated and re-deposited by the movement of the vaporized fuel, and just the oil is deposited on internal engine parts. Injector oil is a lighter formula more like 10-30 oil, because this oil in motorcycles is dispersed in the air stream just after the carburetor, it needs to be thinner to catch the wind. Some oils are listed as suitable for both and measure "inbetween" in viscosities, are available in either standard or synthetic formulas.

Generally all two-stroke oils carry the government rating TC-W3, and are fine for all pre-mix two-stroke motors. Saab manuals in the past specified premix oils because of the heavier size oil molecules. The total lubrication quality of today's oils are so far superior, that the advice Saab gave is no longer true. Mix the oil to gas ratios as specified in your Saab owners manuals for high speed driving (more oil). Be aware the modern motorcycle - watercraft oil you purchased may call for lesser amounts of oil. If you are confused follow directions for the new standard TC-W3 oil and add 20% more oil to the same amount of specified gasoline. This basic two-stroke oil costs about $20.00 a gallon. New on the market are part synthetic blends and are priced only a few dollars more for the same gallon amount. 100% synthetic oils are available but have a significantly higher cost, around $ 40.00 a gallon. Blended or full synthetics should be used in slightly heavier amounts 10% above directed amounts listed on the package label. I would highly recomend the part synthetic blended or pure synthetic two- stroke oils for all Saab motors. Do not use additives with synthetic oils, they are very sensitive to disruption or stratifying. I do not recomend plain TC-W3 oil for Monte-Carlos as their minimized oil supply should only be of maximun oil quality. If you must economize, use Yamaha 2-S blend. Because Saab's oil pump injection will "pipe" the oil directly to the cylinder wall and engine bearings, synthetic lubrication will be less viscous but more stable and total oil consumption will remain about the same. The best benefit of synthetic oils are markedly reduced smoking, because more oil is staying inside the engine.

Cruising a pre mix stroker steadily above 3,000 rpm could cause a condition where the friction consumption of lubricating oil can exceed the amount delivered by part throttle cruise conditions. This is our typical flat interstate driving which was inconceivable to Sweden in the 1950's. When this engine prowled the roads in its prime, then 45 mph was the top posted speed for fast roads. The Germans with high speed autobahns, also fancied the Saab motors ,and developed a process of wicking the oil ( up to the pistons ) by running with generous oil ratio's and fat carb jets. Saab also was concerned with lubrication on overrun downhill situations, no throttle open, but high rpm engine braking. Saab's answer was to free-wheel the gear box, dropping to idle where fuel and oil and friction loads all balanced out. On any hill, you open the throttle enough to admit adequate oil, and, on downhills, you should let your engine idle. The real danger condition is flat-land, high speeds where you have very little throttle applied. The pistons literally dry out because friction losses consume more oil than what is deposited there from the fuel. Primarily, your best and most effective strategy is to mix more oil (than listed) with the gasoline, run prudent speeds, with a slightly de-tuned motor. The goal is to have a doggy motor that you will have your "foot into" a bit more to deposit more oil inside it. Secondarily, also consider using these "wicking" strategies for pre-mix motors: choke engine briefly, while engine is still at speed, once per 2-3 minutes; allow engine to idle occasionally/ for 20-30 seconds every 2 -3 minutes. This procedure is easier if you think to let your speed on the level interstate slow from 60 mph to 50 mph in neutral, then resume speed. Oil pump motors can use additional oil in the tank at half listed ratio's.

Saab two-Stroke motors are extremely high performance motors and they required premium fuel. Monte-Carlo, and standard motors suffered from detonation in the 1960's and do now the 1990's. Detonation is devastating because of the extra piston heat incurred going up, and going down will quickly begin to melt the pistons. Detonation sounds like a lite wispy crackle primarily between 2,800 and 4,200 RPM with 30-70% throttle openings. You can proof this noise as detonation by pulling out the choke half way, briefly, when you think you may be hearing ping. "Ping" is a hard to hear and all windows must be closed and no radio on. Literally most drivers never hear two stroke ping as it is of a higher frequency and lower volume than you might expect. Also ping is not heard every time because heat build up has to first occur. The hill has to be 45 seconds long or more and you must be extracting full power, but not necessarily floored throttle.

Ignition Timing: To retain health for your two stroke motor, set all Saab two-strokes at slightly retarded timing specifications when at sealevel, and a little above specification at altitude. Again this is due to the fuel octane being lower than in the old days, and the really cold plugs are obsolete. The best you can get are NGK A-8's and these are generally recommended for all models. The other factor to help stop detonation is lower coolant temperatures. Other overlooked sources of ping is to test for low fuel level in the carb bowl. Generally one carb tends to have a fuel level low enough to to upset the amount of fuel delivered. Read on for tips to lower coolant temperatures, primarily recoring the radiator. Also, do not use a vacuum advance if your engine has one, until you eliminate all ping conditions

  1. Sea level timing: just below (retarded) full adv. mark at 3,000 rpm,
    On Road: DO NOT USE VAC ADV.
  2. Altitude timing: advance 3 deg. (1/8 th. IN. or thickness of matchhead) above full adv. mark at 3,000 rpm

Cooling: Adequate cooling for 1964 and earlier 96's will depend on radiators having an extra core run added (4 instead of 3) and cardboard baffles refitted below the radiator area . These baffles are imperative for the development of a low pressure area behind the radiator for good air flow. Also consider using "coolant wetting" agents that will cause coolant to give up heat more efficiently. The same coolant advice goes for 1965 and up "long nose" 96's. Have the radiator recored with one more row of runs added. Make sure you have working temperature gages, good hoses and rad. caps and carry an extra h2o pump along. Consider blocking off the extra space on either side of the radiator to let all the wind stream pass through the radiator at highway speeds. Remember to turn on the heat if you start to overheat on long pulls in the mountains. If you get a hot runner and did not get this sorted out before leaving, consider hanging a junk yard heater core under the hood. Remove the original heater hoses at the head and return pipe, let them hang, and add new hoses to the spare heater core and duct air to it with clothes drier vent tubing. this alone can low temps around 15 F. You can easily remove this apparatus for the concours part of the convention. A new electric H20 pump is available for emg. pump failures.

Lastly if you do have a 62-64 Sport Motor with the original air cleaner, three little filters, no new filters are available. You can scrounge and use the later Darth Vaider 65&up air cleaner assembly for which new filters are available. Notch cut and fold back a 1 inch wide flat (half inch deep.)in the area where the rear upright fan bracket hits. If you have the individual carbs 62-64, be sure to use a VW bug inline fuel filter and piece of hose to act a a source of filtered air for the idle circuit. Exhaust pipes tend to close off with the carbon and un burnt oil and will close off, restricting engine breathing. Remove the rear muffler and look inside both ways, to the front and in the muffler. If buildup is 1/4 in. or more, replace pipe or muffler as necessary. V-4 rear mufflers are available, as are pipes ft. to rear for the V/4, which will fit the 2-stroke. A rear half section is available. See instructions for modifications of these parts to fit your two-stroke. Lastly, tyre pressure will increase with altitude. The 30 lbs. of "dense air" you put in your cars' tires at sea level will now represent 40lbs. at Keystone.

Spare Parts
Please recheck these part numbers with your local Saab partsman.

  • Exhaust pipe , V-4 front to rear :________________________
  • Exhaust Pipe, stroker, rear half :________________________
  • Air Filter, stroker, 65 and up :__________________________
  • Muffler, V-4 :_______________________________________
  • Diaphragm , Stromberg :_____________________________
  • Emergency electric water pump :_______________________
  • 2-stroke spark plugs
    • Bosch 240's
    • NGK A-8

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Safety on the Interstate Highway

All slow Strokers are recommended to purchase and use a bike strobic warning lite to set in the back window.

Safety on I-70 will depend on safely sharing the road with faster and slower cars, and trucks. Most cars will be traveling 70 MPH up-hill in the left lane, you are pushing 3rd and holding on to 40 mph, in the right lane when up ahead a steel truck is grinding up the mountain at 18 mph. You either slow to 18 mph or merge to the left to "pass" at a whopping 38 MPH, which by the time you decided your new speed of 36 mph is now just below your power curve and 3rd gear will no longer hold this speed. Here comes 2nd gear and 35 mph, and the traffic behind is not immune to "road rage" . Which brings us back to your little red strobic bike lite. This flashing information will be just enough for most people to figure your situation out as a special slow (especially slow) vehicle, and they will possible display more graciousness and courtesy. Georgetown to Silverplume is the steepest 2 mile segment on I-70. It is here that you will have only one shot to hold third gear. There is no shame to using second gear. If you get caught behind traffic make the safe choice and slow down. There will be another shot at third gear and that will hold till about a mile from the Eisenhower Tunnel.

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Telephone numbers for advice:

  • Don Wollum: 301-349-2149, 8:00 PM to 9:00 PM Eastern Time
  • Bud Clark: 714-282-7378, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM Pacific Time

Compiled and written by Don Wollum,
Saab Product Technical Historian and Vintage Saab Owner.

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